2015年01月27日
Latest Paris fashion may be sign of the end times
Gordzilla in the City: Latest Paris fashion may be sign of the end timesMy late stepfather, Don Mathie, whose stories of growing up during the Depression in Rocanville, Sask., could have been written by W.O. Mitchell, liked to tell one about a family of Jehovah’s Witnesses and their broken fence.
He was friends with one of the kids and while over at their house one time he innocently asked the father why he didn’t fix the fence. The man stared at him with grim seriousness and announced that there was no point in repairing it as the world would be coming to an end in a few months.
What a delightful thing to tell a kid, especially someone else’s kid. Clearly, the current public discussion about overprotective parenting would not have come up in the 1920s and ’30s, when, apparently, under-protective parenting was the norm.
Among Don’s other stories was the time he and some friends blew up a still, a shed and nearly themselves while trying to make moonshine and when he was shot in the derrière by a buddy who tripped while walking behind him carrying a loaded rifle. And to think that many parents nowadays won’t let their kids walk to school because of the “dangers.”
I first heard the fence story in the late-1970s or early ’80s and Don — an atheist who found religious people and their views pretty goofy — always finished the yarn with the same question and a chuckle: “I wonder if he ever did fix that fence?”
While the Jehovah’s Witnesses and other religious folks have been spectacularly bad at predicting the date of the apocalypse over the centuries, let’s not judge them too harshly — the actual sign of Armageddon hadn’t been revealed to them. It didn’t arrive until last week at a fashion show in Paris.
I’m talking about male underjunk.
If you thought our pornified culture’s juvenile obsession with underboob, sideboob or anything to do with the Kardashians were signs of the end times it turns out they were just preludes to the final indication that earthly annihilation is upon us.
It was delivered by California fashion designer Rick Owens, whose hideous 2015 fall/winter collection included strange cloaks for men, apparently inspired by some dreary, post-nuclear dystopian future, that featured crotch-level little windows and cutaways revealing the models’ bits and pieces. In addition to being ugly, it looked like a good way to catch a chill.
The gasps of shock by those attending Owens’ Paris penis parade quickly echoed around the world via the Internet. Province Editor-in-Chief Wayne Moriarty had one of the best lines. “Dear giant end-of-days asteroid. You can arrive now,” he posted on Facebook.
I presume Owens knows that his, ahem, “creations” have no hope of finding a market and that his stunt was largely about creating buzz for his brand, but, come on, give us a break. Is the defining aspect of Western civilization today that we no longer have any standards of propriety? Should nothing now remain private?
Even over-sharing pop star Miley Cyrus, whose performances would only have been suitable for strip joints not that long ago, tweeted out last week that she had run out of things to tell the world through Twitter, which in her case means that she’s exposed every last private aspect of herself. Someone on the radio Friday joked that Cyrus would need an endoscope if she intended to reveal any more of herself. “Hey, everyone! Check out my ovaries!”
It can be no coincidence that underjunk appeared on the same day that the Bulletin of Atomic Scientists moved its Doomsday Clock forward two minutes to three minutes before midnight, “the closest the clock has been to Doomsday since 1984.” (If the clock hits midnight, we’re toast.)
The scientists say they moved the clock to express their concerns about climate change and nuclear weapons, which “pose extraordinary and undeniable threats to the continued existence of humanity.” I bet they were just too embarrassed to mention underjunk’s role in the threat. If it’s not a sign that the end is nigh, I fear the existence of dangly bits in men’s fashion may mean that humanity is not worth saving.
He was friends with one of the kids and while over at their house one time he innocently asked the father why he didn’t fix the fence. The man stared at him with grim seriousness and announced that there was no point in repairing it as the world would be coming to an end in a few months.
What a delightful thing to tell a kid, especially someone else’s kid. Clearly, the current public discussion about overprotective parenting would not have come up in the 1920s and ’30s, when, apparently, under-protective parenting was the norm.
Among Don’s other stories was the time he and some friends blew up a still, a shed and nearly themselves while trying to make moonshine and when he was shot in the derrière by a buddy who tripped while walking behind him carrying a loaded rifle. And to think that many parents nowadays won’t let their kids walk to school because of the “dangers.”
I first heard the fence story in the late-1970s or early ’80s and Don — an atheist who found religious people and their views pretty goofy — always finished the yarn with the same question and a chuckle: “I wonder if he ever did fix that fence?”
While the Jehovah’s Witnesses and other religious folks have been spectacularly bad at predicting the date of the apocalypse over the centuries, let’s not judge them too harshly — the actual sign of Armageddon hadn’t been revealed to them. It didn’t arrive until last week at a fashion show in Paris.
I’m talking about male underjunk.
If you thought our pornified culture’s juvenile obsession with underboob, sideboob or anything to do with the Kardashians were signs of the end times it turns out they were just preludes to the final indication that earthly annihilation is upon us.
It was delivered by California fashion designer Rick Owens, whose hideous 2015 fall/winter collection included strange cloaks for men, apparently inspired by some dreary, post-nuclear dystopian future, that featured crotch-level little windows and cutaways revealing the models’ bits and pieces. In addition to being ugly, it looked like a good way to catch a chill.
The gasps of shock by those attending Owens’ Paris penis parade quickly echoed around the world via the Internet. Province Editor-in-Chief Wayne Moriarty had one of the best lines. “Dear giant end-of-days asteroid. You can arrive now,” he posted on Facebook.
I presume Owens knows that his, ahem, “creations” have no hope of finding a market and that his stunt was largely about creating buzz for his brand, but, come on, give us a break. Is the defining aspect of Western civilization today that we no longer have any standards of propriety? Should nothing now remain private?
Even over-sharing pop star Miley Cyrus, whose performances would only have been suitable for strip joints not that long ago, tweeted out last week that she had run out of things to tell the world through Twitter, which in her case means that she’s exposed every last private aspect of herself. Someone on the radio Friday joked that Cyrus would need an endoscope if she intended to reveal any more of herself. “Hey, everyone! Check out my ovaries!”
It can be no coincidence that underjunk appeared on the same day that the Bulletin of Atomic Scientists moved its Doomsday Clock forward two minutes to three minutes before midnight, “the closest the clock has been to Doomsday since 1984.” (If the clock hits midnight, we’re toast.)
The scientists say they moved the clock to express their concerns about climate change and nuclear weapons, which “pose extraordinary and undeniable threats to the continued existence of humanity.” I bet they were just too embarrassed to mention underjunk’s role in the threat. If it’s not a sign that the end is nigh, I fear the existence of dangly bits in men’s fashion may mean that humanity is not worth saving.
Posted by albert at
10:14
│Comments(0)
2015年01月24日
The 10 best fashion muses
The 10 best fashion muses
From Joni Mitchell to Kim Kardashian, Melanie Rickey picks fashion’s most inspiring muses
Have we missed a muse? Leave your suggestion in the comments below and it could feature in the alternative list next week
Joni Mitchell may have been out of the spotlight for decades, but 2015 sees a comeback of sorts for the revered singer-songwriter, with designers Derek Lam, Chloé and Valentino channelling her 60s fresh-faced folk-singer vibe in their spring/summer collections. Bell sleeves, macramé tunics, minimal makeup and copious amounts of brushed suede constitute the Joni look, and it will be in a high street near you in, oh, about two weeks. Meanwhile, the grown-up Joni, now 71, is a face in the latest campaign for Saint Laurent.
It’s been a while since velvet flares, flowery shirts and fringed suede jackets were seen as anything other than silly 70s fancy dress – but their time has come again. Jimi Hendrix’s wicked way with a medallion and a military drummer jacket is having another fashion moment nearly 45 years after his death. Three of the most influential collections for spring 2015, Saint Laurent, Gucci and Dries Van Noten, all reference the guitar genius, a serious fashionisto whose way with a skinny scarf and a few undone buttons has never been bettered.
The secret to Audrey Hepburn’s 50-year reign as the most copied style icon on Earth is that she kept things simple and understood proportion. Hepburn earned her place on the International Best-Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1961, the yearBreakfast at Tiffany’s became a worldwide hit. She is best known for her classic chic style and she rotated the same few, failsafe pieces throughout her life. The Audrey top five has got to be a cropped slim trouser, little black dress, trenchcoat, round-neck sweater and oversized glasses. All that remains is to break into Moon River…
With her Marilyn Monroe hair and gap-toothed smile, Donna Jordan, one of the most influential models of the 70s, re-emerged from the mists of time last September/October during the spring/summer 2015 catwalk shows of Tom Ford and Saint Laurent, who referenced her way of blending a glamorous gown with a turban and disco platforms. She wasn’t called the Disco Marilyn for nothing. No doubt the designers were rewatching Andy Warhol’s 1973 film L’Amour, in which Donna stars with none other than Karl Lagerfeld.
As fashion muses go, they don’t get more varied and experimental than David Bowie. At the 2013 V&A show David Bowie Is, his body of work as a musician was almost matched by the astonishing fashion costumes he commissioned. Bowie would scoff at the idea of himself as a muse; he has always kept fashion at arm’s length, and says his clothes are a tool to make him “look how the [music] sounds”. Still, fashion loves him, and each time the catwalk shows come around an aspect of Bowie pops up, whether it’s sharp skinny-legged suits, luridly patterned jumpsuits or platform boots.
She broke the internet with her bum last year, and like Victoria Beckham has a dodgy sartorial past. But since pursuing high-fashion designers to dress her, and then Anna Wintour of American Vogue, who put Kim and her husband, Kanye West, on the April 2014 cover – promptly breaking all sales records – Kim has emerged triumphant. She is also a hugely powerful marketing tool for brands. Like her or not, Kim influences women across the world with her curvalicious style. Her way with a split skirt, and a curve-embracing bodycon dress makes her the muse of full-bodied chicks everywhere.
Diana Vreeland is queen fashion muse; not just for the extraordinary way she dressed, or her epic and inspirational body of work as fashion editor for Harper’s Bazaar from 1939 to 1962, and editor-in-chief at Vogue from 1962 to 1971. No, her enduring legacy is her status as the most quotable fashion person ever. She coined the word “pizzazz” to sum up a heady combination of vitality and glamour, and dropped bon mots such as: “Unshined shoes are the end of civilisation.” To join the DV fan club, acquire her book, Allure, and watch the documentary about her life, The Eye Has to Travel. You’ll be quoting her in no time.
Blonde British supermodels who become global style icons come along once every 20 years or so. It is written. And it enables Kate Moss and Cara Delevingneto become a single entity at this point in their modelling careers while also staying highly relevant to their respective audiences. That they clearly represent the same quirkily individual sense of style makes them brilliant value as one muse. And, no, you can’t argue the point. It is as obvious as the nose on my face.
With each of the showgirl stage outfits she wore to perform at the Paris dance hall Folies Bergère, in the 1920s, Josephine Baker trailblazed a style so risqué she became an international star and remains a continually referenced style icon to this day. Her kiss curls, smokey eyes and nearly naked costumes, comprising feathers and a smile or a tutu of bananas, sealed her status as a muse for today’s most recognisable women of colour, including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Naomi Campbell. Josephine’s personal style cut a rug of fabulousness, too; she could switcheroo between a mannish suit and an Oscar-worthy gown with ease.
Where would David Beckham and Brad Pitt be without James Dean as their style muse? And for that matter, where would half the British male population be without David Beckham? A million fewer tattooed arms to be sure, but thoughJames Dean was not obviously inked, his way with a biceps-hugging, tight white T-shirt, well-worn blue jeans, scuffed leather jacket and slicked-back dirty blond hair looks as modern today as it did in his 1950s heyday. His death at the ridiculously young age of 23, in a car crash, cemented his legendary status.
From Joni Mitchell to Kim Kardashian, Melanie Rickey picks fashion’s most inspiring muses
Have we missed a muse? Leave your suggestion in the comments below and it could feature in the alternative list next week
Joni Mitchell may have been out of the spotlight for decades, but 2015 sees a comeback of sorts for the revered singer-songwriter, with designers Derek Lam, Chloé and Valentino channelling her 60s fresh-faced folk-singer vibe in their spring/summer collections. Bell sleeves, macramé tunics, minimal makeup and copious amounts of brushed suede constitute the Joni look, and it will be in a high street near you in, oh, about two weeks. Meanwhile, the grown-up Joni, now 71, is a face in the latest campaign for Saint Laurent.
It’s been a while since velvet flares, flowery shirts and fringed suede jackets were seen as anything other than silly 70s fancy dress – but their time has come again. Jimi Hendrix’s wicked way with a medallion and a military drummer jacket is having another fashion moment nearly 45 years after his death. Three of the most influential collections for spring 2015, Saint Laurent, Gucci and Dries Van Noten, all reference the guitar genius, a serious fashionisto whose way with a skinny scarf and a few undone buttons has never been bettered.
The secret to Audrey Hepburn’s 50-year reign as the most copied style icon on Earth is that she kept things simple and understood proportion. Hepburn earned her place on the International Best-Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1961, the yearBreakfast at Tiffany’s became a worldwide hit. She is best known for her classic chic style and she rotated the same few, failsafe pieces throughout her life. The Audrey top five has got to be a cropped slim trouser, little black dress, trenchcoat, round-neck sweater and oversized glasses. All that remains is to break into Moon River…
With her Marilyn Monroe hair and gap-toothed smile, Donna Jordan, one of the most influential models of the 70s, re-emerged from the mists of time last September/October during the spring/summer 2015 catwalk shows of Tom Ford and Saint Laurent, who referenced her way of blending a glamorous gown with a turban and disco platforms. She wasn’t called the Disco Marilyn for nothing. No doubt the designers were rewatching Andy Warhol’s 1973 film L’Amour, in which Donna stars with none other than Karl Lagerfeld.
As fashion muses go, they don’t get more varied and experimental than David Bowie. At the 2013 V&A show David Bowie Is, his body of work as a musician was almost matched by the astonishing fashion costumes he commissioned. Bowie would scoff at the idea of himself as a muse; he has always kept fashion at arm’s length, and says his clothes are a tool to make him “look how the [music] sounds”. Still, fashion loves him, and each time the catwalk shows come around an aspect of Bowie pops up, whether it’s sharp skinny-legged suits, luridly patterned jumpsuits or platform boots.
She broke the internet with her bum last year, and like Victoria Beckham has a dodgy sartorial past. But since pursuing high-fashion designers to dress her, and then Anna Wintour of American Vogue, who put Kim and her husband, Kanye West, on the April 2014 cover – promptly breaking all sales records – Kim has emerged triumphant. She is also a hugely powerful marketing tool for brands. Like her or not, Kim influences women across the world with her curvalicious style. Her way with a split skirt, and a curve-embracing bodycon dress makes her the muse of full-bodied chicks everywhere.
Diana Vreeland is queen fashion muse; not just for the extraordinary way she dressed, or her epic and inspirational body of work as fashion editor for Harper’s Bazaar from 1939 to 1962, and editor-in-chief at Vogue from 1962 to 1971. No, her enduring legacy is her status as the most quotable fashion person ever. She coined the word “pizzazz” to sum up a heady combination of vitality and glamour, and dropped bon mots such as: “Unshined shoes are the end of civilisation.” To join the DV fan club, acquire her book, Allure, and watch the documentary about her life, The Eye Has to Travel. You’ll be quoting her in no time.
Blonde British supermodels who become global style icons come along once every 20 years or so. It is written. And it enables Kate Moss and Cara Delevingneto become a single entity at this point in their modelling careers while also staying highly relevant to their respective audiences. That they clearly represent the same quirkily individual sense of style makes them brilliant value as one muse. And, no, you can’t argue the point. It is as obvious as the nose on my face.
With each of the showgirl stage outfits she wore to perform at the Paris dance hall Folies Bergère, in the 1920s, Josephine Baker trailblazed a style so risqué she became an international star and remains a continually referenced style icon to this day. Her kiss curls, smokey eyes and nearly naked costumes, comprising feathers and a smile or a tutu of bananas, sealed her status as a muse for today’s most recognisable women of colour, including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Naomi Campbell. Josephine’s personal style cut a rug of fabulousness, too; she could switcheroo between a mannish suit and an Oscar-worthy gown with ease.
Where would David Beckham and Brad Pitt be without James Dean as their style muse? And for that matter, where would half the British male population be without David Beckham? A million fewer tattooed arms to be sure, but thoughJames Dean was not obviously inked, his way with a biceps-hugging, tight white T-shirt, well-worn blue jeans, scuffed leather jacket and slicked-back dirty blond hair looks as modern today as it did in his 1950s heyday. His death at the ridiculously young age of 23, in a car crash, cemented his legendary status.
Posted by albert at
10:33
│Comments(0)
2015年01月22日
What You’ll Be Wearing Next Fal
What You’ll Be Wearing Next Fall: 7 Trends From Milan Fashion Week
So that happened. And no, I’m not referring to that gender-confusing Gucci collection, the first post-Frida Giannini. (Or am I? It was actually pretty beautiful.) I meant, Milan Fashion Week is a wrap. But before I catch this flight to Paris to discover the French capital’s fashion offerings, here's a list of which Italian trends are worth taking home with us (in addition to that bag of cannoli I plan to polish off before the Valentino show, oops).
And guys, follow us on our new Twitter handle @luxury—like these styling lessons and fall wardrobe suggestions, you'll be right on trend.
Sartorial Casual
Effortless cool, comfort chic—it all means the same thing: Dress down to dress up. Look good, but be comfortable. This reimagined formality, which is anchored by lived-in, inventive layering, was seen at shows from Bottega Veneta to Canali and Salvatore Ferragamo. To create the look, start with a fine-gauge turtleneck, gray flannel trousers, and a killer piece of outerwear (like a fitted shearling bomber or oversize double-breasted coat).
Belts
You’ve been warned, fellas: Cinched waists are not just for the ladies anymore. Designers highlighted slimmed-down silhouettes (and torsos) with belts on everything from herringbone topcoats, sporty trenches, and even shortened-up double-breasted wool blends.
Brown
Browns were paired with black, blue, and every color in between—and often shown layered on top of each other in varying shades and textures. Think nutty colors, like chestnut, or with tinges of red in a rusty hue.
Statement Sweaters
Graphic knits are an easy way to make a subtle-yet-strong statement. Neil Barrett, who is famous for his lightning bolt and color-block knits and shirts, introduced a shooting-star graphic this season, while Dolce & Gabbana screen-printed family portraits, creating a strong emotional statement.
Covered Necks
We noticed a … well, trend in many of the trends: no neck cleavage. Whether by a chunky turtleneck or oversize cashmere scarf, ascots, and even those ruffled, high-neck blouses at Gucci and Marc Jacobs, covering below your chin will certainly be a common (even popular) way of accessorizing come fall.
Wide-Wale Cords
The least formal (and also softest) player in the corduroy family is back in a big way. This is actually great. The thicker-ridged cord is also the easiest way to show texture when playing with those additional layers next season, especially when they're monochromatic.
Primary Colors
Sure, there were shades of gray and jewel tones aplenty in Milan, but there were also pops of color from bright mustard yellow to royal blue and traffic light red (as in Michael Bastian’s case). Good news: All of them go good with gray—so basically the entire Calvin Klein collection.
Nic Screws is the style director at Bloomberg and has been reporting from Europe's menswear shows all month. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter and Bloomberg Pursuits on its new Twitter handle, @luxury.
So that happened. And no, I’m not referring to that gender-confusing Gucci collection, the first post-Frida Giannini. (Or am I? It was actually pretty beautiful.) I meant, Milan Fashion Week is a wrap. But before I catch this flight to Paris to discover the French capital’s fashion offerings, here's a list of which Italian trends are worth taking home with us (in addition to that bag of cannoli I plan to polish off before the Valentino show, oops).
And guys, follow us on our new Twitter handle @luxury—like these styling lessons and fall wardrobe suggestions, you'll be right on trend.
Sartorial Casual
Effortless cool, comfort chic—it all means the same thing: Dress down to dress up. Look good, but be comfortable. This reimagined formality, which is anchored by lived-in, inventive layering, was seen at shows from Bottega Veneta to Canali and Salvatore Ferragamo. To create the look, start with a fine-gauge turtleneck, gray flannel trousers, and a killer piece of outerwear (like a fitted shearling bomber or oversize double-breasted coat).
Belts
You’ve been warned, fellas: Cinched waists are not just for the ladies anymore. Designers highlighted slimmed-down silhouettes (and torsos) with belts on everything from herringbone topcoats, sporty trenches, and even shortened-up double-breasted wool blends.
Brown
Browns were paired with black, blue, and every color in between—and often shown layered on top of each other in varying shades and textures. Think nutty colors, like chestnut, or with tinges of red in a rusty hue.
Statement Sweaters
Graphic knits are an easy way to make a subtle-yet-strong statement. Neil Barrett, who is famous for his lightning bolt and color-block knits and shirts, introduced a shooting-star graphic this season, while Dolce & Gabbana screen-printed family portraits, creating a strong emotional statement.
Covered Necks
We noticed a … well, trend in many of the trends: no neck cleavage. Whether by a chunky turtleneck or oversize cashmere scarf, ascots, and even those ruffled, high-neck blouses at Gucci and Marc Jacobs, covering below your chin will certainly be a common (even popular) way of accessorizing come fall.
Wide-Wale Cords
The least formal (and also softest) player in the corduroy family is back in a big way. This is actually great. The thicker-ridged cord is also the easiest way to show texture when playing with those additional layers next season, especially when they're monochromatic.
Primary Colors
Sure, there were shades of gray and jewel tones aplenty in Milan, but there were also pops of color from bright mustard yellow to royal blue and traffic light red (as in Michael Bastian’s case). Good news: All of them go good with gray—so basically the entire Calvin Klein collection.
Nic Screws is the style director at Bloomberg and has been reporting from Europe's menswear shows all month. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter and Bloomberg Pursuits on its new Twitter handle, @luxury.
Posted by albert at
10:17
│Comments(0)
2015年01月20日
Milan Fashion Week: Menswear report 3
Milan Fashion Week: Menswear report 3
And so continues the tumultuous story of Gucci. Today’s autumn/winter 2015 menswear show was the first since the double ousting of Frida Giannini as creative director and her partner Patrizio di Marco as CEO. The initial plan was for Giannini to design this season’s collections for men and women. Then she abruptly left for good. Today’s collection was designed from scratch by the in-house team in seven days. Everything that Giannini had been working on had been scrapped. Such drama, but such a small part of the wider issues facing Kering’s biggest banker.
The show itself was a surprise. After seasons of straightforward stuff at Gucci, the brand took a turn towards the male/female gender play that has preoccupied many designers of late. Let’s be blunt: much of it looked like Prada from two seasons ago, especially the chiffon shirts worn with sludgy brown trousers. Was this a problem? For such a quick-turnaround collection, no, because at least it showed the nerve of those backstage to do a such a complete volte-face.
Actually, the best pieces were those that looked like Gucci menswear. Strong were pieces like a suede blazer, a little paisley top and a parka with a shearling-lined hood. There were many good ideas bouncing around, such as a corduroy jacket with astrakhan trims at the cuff. Double-G belts looked relevant for the first time in ages. At the end, the entire team came and took a bow. The crowd roared, the biggest noise in that room since the departure of Tom Ford.
All the talk in Milan is about who will be the next creative director. In the running is current head accessories designer Alessandro Michele, who led the team in making this collection. Good luck to him. But there are so many other issues facing the new CEO Marco Bizzarri, an import from Kering stablemate Bottega Veneta. Some are obvious and urgent, like an overhaul of the current lifeless store design. Others are more holistic. What does Kering want Gucci to be? It is one of the most famous brands in the world. Why doesn’t it feel as agile and relevant as Apple, or as embedded in people’s lives as Starbucks?
The comparison with Apple is an important one. Consumers around the world flood into Apple stores prepared to spend thousands without a flinch. Many of those same consumers would feel too intimidated even to go into Gucci for a keyring. Then there’s the threat posed to Gucci by Apple itself. It’s called the Apple Watch. A possible future exists where its Apple Pay function does away with credit cards and currency all together. A key product category for Gucci is small leather goods: wallets, credit card holders, purses. How will it cope if suddenly no one has the need for them?
This may sound a curveball theory, but it’s one that comes from inside Apple itself. This is a stealth issue for many of Italy’s leather-based luxury labels, but it feels pertinent to Gucci because it is a brand with the rare opportunity to reimagine itself for the 21st century. Whether it grasps or shirks away from the big questions will determine its future. Such a brand overhaul has already been achieved at Kering’s Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. It’s Gucci’s turn to be bold now.
What just happened at Emporio Armani? At the beginning, some shadowy figures ran out into the darkness with mini torches. It was like watching the bit-part actors in some million dollar heist movie. The lights went semi-up to reveal models stood stock still in skin-tight bodysuits. Nobody moved. The lights went down, and they scarpered. The show that followed - knitwear, jersey - had absolutely no connection. Did I imagine it? Have I been at shows too long?
There were many nice pieces on the catwalk, especially the Armani safe ground of knit blazers and soft tailoring. He wove into cloth the effect of a paint stroke, which was particularly pleasing. Less so were the low-cut waistcoats on some ghoulish evening looks - not advisable wear for a first Tinder date. Compared to the Gucci catwalk, there was not a whiff of revolution, which is exactly how Mr Armani wants it.
And so continues the tumultuous story of Gucci. Today’s autumn/winter 2015 menswear show was the first since the double ousting of Frida Giannini as creative director and her partner Patrizio di Marco as CEO. The initial plan was for Giannini to design this season’s collections for men and women. Then she abruptly left for good. Today’s collection was designed from scratch by the in-house team in seven days. Everything that Giannini had been working on had been scrapped. Such drama, but such a small part of the wider issues facing Kering’s biggest banker.
The show itself was a surprise. After seasons of straightforward stuff at Gucci, the brand took a turn towards the male/female gender play that has preoccupied many designers of late. Let’s be blunt: much of it looked like Prada from two seasons ago, especially the chiffon shirts worn with sludgy brown trousers. Was this a problem? For such a quick-turnaround collection, no, because at least it showed the nerve of those backstage to do a such a complete volte-face.
Actually, the best pieces were those that looked like Gucci menswear. Strong were pieces like a suede blazer, a little paisley top and a parka with a shearling-lined hood. There were many good ideas bouncing around, such as a corduroy jacket with astrakhan trims at the cuff. Double-G belts looked relevant for the first time in ages. At the end, the entire team came and took a bow. The crowd roared, the biggest noise in that room since the departure of Tom Ford.
All the talk in Milan is about who will be the next creative director. In the running is current head accessories designer Alessandro Michele, who led the team in making this collection. Good luck to him. But there are so many other issues facing the new CEO Marco Bizzarri, an import from Kering stablemate Bottega Veneta. Some are obvious and urgent, like an overhaul of the current lifeless store design. Others are more holistic. What does Kering want Gucci to be? It is one of the most famous brands in the world. Why doesn’t it feel as agile and relevant as Apple, or as embedded in people’s lives as Starbucks?
The comparison with Apple is an important one. Consumers around the world flood into Apple stores prepared to spend thousands without a flinch. Many of those same consumers would feel too intimidated even to go into Gucci for a keyring. Then there’s the threat posed to Gucci by Apple itself. It’s called the Apple Watch. A possible future exists where its Apple Pay function does away with credit cards and currency all together. A key product category for Gucci is small leather goods: wallets, credit card holders, purses. How will it cope if suddenly no one has the need for them?
This may sound a curveball theory, but it’s one that comes from inside Apple itself. This is a stealth issue for many of Italy’s leather-based luxury labels, but it feels pertinent to Gucci because it is a brand with the rare opportunity to reimagine itself for the 21st century. Whether it grasps or shirks away from the big questions will determine its future. Such a brand overhaul has already been achieved at Kering’s Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. It’s Gucci’s turn to be bold now.
What just happened at Emporio Armani? At the beginning, some shadowy figures ran out into the darkness with mini torches. It was like watching the bit-part actors in some million dollar heist movie. The lights went semi-up to reveal models stood stock still in skin-tight bodysuits. Nobody moved. The lights went down, and they scarpered. The show that followed - knitwear, jersey - had absolutely no connection. Did I imagine it? Have I been at shows too long?
There were many nice pieces on the catwalk, especially the Armani safe ground of knit blazers and soft tailoring. He wove into cloth the effect of a paint stroke, which was particularly pleasing. Less so were the low-cut waistcoats on some ghoulish evening looks - not advisable wear for a first Tinder date. Compared to the Gucci catwalk, there was not a whiff of revolution, which is exactly how Mr Armani wants it.
Posted by albert at
10:24
│Comments(0)
2015年01月17日
HOW ONE CUSTOM SUIT BRAND IS ELEVATING QUEER FASHION
HOW ONE CUSTOM SUIT BRAND IS ELEVATING QUEER FASHION
In two years, Sharpe Suiting has become a destination for custom-tailored suits for Los Angeles's queer community. With $69,387 in funding from Kickstarter, the company is now preparing to launch a ready-to-wear line.
The first time a young man gets fitted for a tailor-made suit is a momentous occasion and a rite of passage. Custom suits are expensive, so they are usually ordered for some of life's most important occasions -- an interview, a new job, a wedding. It's an intimate process where dozens of measurements are taken to ensure the result is just right. And it's a ritual that has been largely reservedfor straight biological males -- until recently.
In Los Angeles, a company started in 2012 is taking gender out of the equation. When a client schedules a consultation at Sharpe Suiting, no assumptions are made about gender or identity. "A big part of that consultation before getting down to the details is really getting to know that person and their identity," says founder and CEO Leon Wu. "We don’t judge anybody when they walk through the door, male or female. They can come in and look like they identify as butch, but only after we actually talk to them and get to know them do we start designing the suit."
This kind of approach was missing in Los Angeles and the LGBT community has been enthusiastically supportive, turning to Sharpe for wedding attire and even red-carpet looks. In its first year of production, funded mostly by Wu's savings, the company designed 100 custom suits for prices ranging from $900 to $1,400. And it wasn't until last summer that Wu decided to quit his job as a project manager and dedicate himself full time to the company.
After collecting and analyzing about 1,000 measurements collected from those first 100 suits, Wu realized that there were enough commonalities among the custom suits ordered by masculine-leaning/female-presenting clients to justify a ready-to-wear line. Not knowing whether or not there was a viable market for the collection, Wu launched a Kickstarter campaign in October 2014 for $60,000. A month later Sharpe had raised $69,387, with enough extra to allow the company to move to a larger location in L.A.'s downtown fashion district.
In two years, Sharpe Suiting has become a destination for custom-tailored suits for Los Angeles's queer community. With $69,387 in funding from Kickstarter, the company is now preparing to launch a ready-to-wear line.
The first time a young man gets fitted for a tailor-made suit is a momentous occasion and a rite of passage. Custom suits are expensive, so they are usually ordered for some of life's most important occasions -- an interview, a new job, a wedding. It's an intimate process where dozens of measurements are taken to ensure the result is just right. And it's a ritual that has been largely reservedfor straight biological males -- until recently.
In Los Angeles, a company started in 2012 is taking gender out of the equation. When a client schedules a consultation at Sharpe Suiting, no assumptions are made about gender or identity. "A big part of that consultation before getting down to the details is really getting to know that person and their identity," says founder and CEO Leon Wu. "We don’t judge anybody when they walk through the door, male or female. They can come in and look like they identify as butch, but only after we actually talk to them and get to know them do we start designing the suit."
This kind of approach was missing in Los Angeles and the LGBT community has been enthusiastically supportive, turning to Sharpe for wedding attire and even red-carpet looks. In its first year of production, funded mostly by Wu's savings, the company designed 100 custom suits for prices ranging from $900 to $1,400. And it wasn't until last summer that Wu decided to quit his job as a project manager and dedicate himself full time to the company.
After collecting and analyzing about 1,000 measurements collected from those first 100 suits, Wu realized that there were enough commonalities among the custom suits ordered by masculine-leaning/female-presenting clients to justify a ready-to-wear line. Not knowing whether or not there was a viable market for the collection, Wu launched a Kickstarter campaign in October 2014 for $60,000. A month later Sharpe had raised $69,387, with enough extra to allow the company to move to a larger location in L.A.'s downtown fashion district.
Posted by albert at
10:15
│Comments(0)
2015年01月16日
Target generated buzz with fashion
Target generated buzz with fashion but felled by pricing, niche focus: experts
Target generated big buzz north of the border with a Jason Wu pop-up shop, splashy presentations at Toronto’s World MasterCard Fashion Week and collaborations with homegrown brands such as Roots and Beaver Canoe.
The designer partnerships and limited-edition fashion lines were a big selling point for the discount retailer, but they couldn’t draw enough foot traffic and sales to help keep Target afloat in Canada.
The Minneapolis-based retail giant announced Thursday that it would be closing up shop across the border, a move that will impact 133 stores.
“I don’t think that their merchandising followed through with what they had promised,” said Wendy Evans, head of Toronto retail consultancy firm Evans and Company Consultants Inc.
“You go into the store, you don’t see the presence of those interesting brands up front: you see a sea of unstocked shelves and fairly drab merchandise.”
Michael Mulvey of the University of Ottawa said generating interest through high-profile events was core to Target’s mission and positioning strategy but any buzz became “overwhelmed with discussion about price.”
“The chatter I saw in the media, a lot of it had to do with how their prices weren’t the same as they were in the U.S., and also how their prices weren’t as deeply discounted as you’d find at Wal-Mart,” said Mulvey, assistant professor of marketing in the Telfer School of Management.
“I think a lot of people started thinking more about price than all of the other wonderful virtues that are Target’s strengths in the U.S.”
Mulvey used to live in the U.S. where he said Target never pretended to be price-comparable with its biggest competitor.
“The idea was if you wanted to buy a garbage can for your office, you could go to Wal-Mart, you could go to Target. But the one at Target’s going to be nicer-looking and it might cost you a buck and a half more,” he said.
“They were very clear about what they stood for in the States, and I think part of the problem they had in Canada was it wasn’t as clear. I think a lot of Canadians had the expectation that it was all about the price and a lot of the virtues like the merchandise selection and the unique qualities about the designer clothes weren’t as foreground here.”
Brynn Winegard, a marketing expert with Winegard & Company, said while there was a select group of consumers who appreciated Target’s fashion partnerships — which also featured limited-edition lines with Canadian designers Melissa Nepton and Sarah Stevenson — it didn’t translate to the wider mass market.
“I’m closely allied to the fashion department at (Toronto’s Ryerson University) and we heard a lot about Target through our students and through other people. But that was a very niche audience that isn’t enough, frankly, for a generalistic department store to survive,” said Winegard.
In addition to criticism of higher prices in Canadian stores, Winegard said operational and supply chain management challenges also hurt the retailer.
“If they really wanted to establish in Canadians’ minds: ‘Hey, we’re a one-stop shop,’ they had to have had a full complement of product on shelves,” she said.
“In actual fact, most people walked out and said: ‘I didn’t find anything I was looking for, nothing was in stock. There are whole sections with nothing on shelves.’”
Blogger Lena Almeida said she loved shopping at Target in the U.S. for the designer collaborations and the ability to obtain items she couldn’t in Canada — namely, stylish pieces at affordable prices. But her shopping habits didn’t change when Target opened closer to home.
“I don’t think it was the fault of them not having amazing collaborations, but I do think that when I went to Target, I went for those specific fashion one-offs (only), and I have a lot of friends in the same age demographic, household income range that were doing the same thing,” said Almeida, who blogs at www.listentolena.com.
The Mississauga, Ont., mom of two said pricing was a big reason she didn’t buy other items at Target.
“I think that every Canadian mom knows her prices and knows where to get the best deals. We have our favourite places to go, and unfortunately, other than a few deals on toys when they had clearance specials, I didn’t see a huge motivating factor for me to make Target my go-to store.”
Target generated big buzz north of the border with a Jason Wu pop-up shop, splashy presentations at Toronto’s World MasterCard Fashion Week and collaborations with homegrown brands such as Roots and Beaver Canoe.
The designer partnerships and limited-edition fashion lines were a big selling point for the discount retailer, but they couldn’t draw enough foot traffic and sales to help keep Target afloat in Canada.
The Minneapolis-based retail giant announced Thursday that it would be closing up shop across the border, a move that will impact 133 stores.
“I don’t think that their merchandising followed through with what they had promised,” said Wendy Evans, head of Toronto retail consultancy firm Evans and Company Consultants Inc.
“You go into the store, you don’t see the presence of those interesting brands up front: you see a sea of unstocked shelves and fairly drab merchandise.”
Michael Mulvey of the University of Ottawa said generating interest through high-profile events was core to Target’s mission and positioning strategy but any buzz became “overwhelmed with discussion about price.”
“The chatter I saw in the media, a lot of it had to do with how their prices weren’t the same as they were in the U.S., and also how their prices weren’t as deeply discounted as you’d find at Wal-Mart,” said Mulvey, assistant professor of marketing in the Telfer School of Management.
“I think a lot of people started thinking more about price than all of the other wonderful virtues that are Target’s strengths in the U.S.”
Mulvey used to live in the U.S. where he said Target never pretended to be price-comparable with its biggest competitor.
“The idea was if you wanted to buy a garbage can for your office, you could go to Wal-Mart, you could go to Target. But the one at Target’s going to be nicer-looking and it might cost you a buck and a half more,” he said.
“They were very clear about what they stood for in the States, and I think part of the problem they had in Canada was it wasn’t as clear. I think a lot of Canadians had the expectation that it was all about the price and a lot of the virtues like the merchandise selection and the unique qualities about the designer clothes weren’t as foreground here.”
Brynn Winegard, a marketing expert with Winegard & Company, said while there was a select group of consumers who appreciated Target’s fashion partnerships — which also featured limited-edition lines with Canadian designers Melissa Nepton and Sarah Stevenson — it didn’t translate to the wider mass market.
“I’m closely allied to the fashion department at (Toronto’s Ryerson University) and we heard a lot about Target through our students and through other people. But that was a very niche audience that isn’t enough, frankly, for a generalistic department store to survive,” said Winegard.
In addition to criticism of higher prices in Canadian stores, Winegard said operational and supply chain management challenges also hurt the retailer.
“If they really wanted to establish in Canadians’ minds: ‘Hey, we’re a one-stop shop,’ they had to have had a full complement of product on shelves,” she said.
“In actual fact, most people walked out and said: ‘I didn’t find anything I was looking for, nothing was in stock. There are whole sections with nothing on shelves.’”
Blogger Lena Almeida said she loved shopping at Target in the U.S. for the designer collaborations and the ability to obtain items she couldn’t in Canada — namely, stylish pieces at affordable prices. But her shopping habits didn’t change when Target opened closer to home.
“I don’t think it was the fault of them not having amazing collaborations, but I do think that when I went to Target, I went for those specific fashion one-offs (only), and I have a lot of friends in the same age demographic, household income range that were doing the same thing,” said Almeida, who blogs at www.listentolena.com.
The Mississauga, Ont., mom of two said pricing was a big reason she didn’t buy other items at Target.
“I think that every Canadian mom knows her prices and knows where to get the best deals. We have our favourite places to go, and unfortunately, other than a few deals on toys when they had clearance specials, I didn’t see a huge motivating factor for me to make Target my go-to store.”
Posted by albert at
10:18
│Comments(0)
2015年01月14日
Quentin Collier swallows pin ahead of Kamloops fashion show
Quentin Collier swallows pin ahead of Kamloops fashion show
A budding Kamloops fashion designer has hit a snag ahead of a big show this Friday.
Grade 12 student Quentin Collier will showcase his latest collection at Hotel 540, but while preparing he swallowed a pin.
"Pins are - it's kind of a fastidious thing to pick them up - so I just pick up a few and pin them in my mouth. That's how I pin things," he told Daybreak Kamloops' Shelley Joyce.
"It's a really bad habit. It's really unsafe, as was proven by last night's event."
Collier laughed at a friend's joke, and felt one of two pins he was holding go down his throat.
"I started freaking out because I remembered this story about a girl who had to get emergency surgery, and I was like 'I can't get surgery. That's so many days of recovery. I'm never going to get stuff done.'"
His dad rushed him to the hospital, where an x-ray showed the pin was already making its way down his digestive tract.
Collier now has to wait for it to pass, and is going for a follow-up x-ray tomorrow to make sure it hasn't punctured anything along the way.
He said he thinks he can feel it, but isn't sure.
"Sometimes I feel a pain, and I'm like 'oh no, that's probably it,' but then I think 'how many aches and pains does the normal human have every day?'"
Through the whole ordeal, Collier has learned a very specific lesson.
"Sometimes it's easier to just pick up the pins with your fingers rather than resorting to unsafe methods of having pins handy," he said.
A budding Kamloops fashion designer has hit a snag ahead of a big show this Friday.
Grade 12 student Quentin Collier will showcase his latest collection at Hotel 540, but while preparing he swallowed a pin.
"Pins are - it's kind of a fastidious thing to pick them up - so I just pick up a few and pin them in my mouth. That's how I pin things," he told Daybreak Kamloops' Shelley Joyce.
"It's a really bad habit. It's really unsafe, as was proven by last night's event."
Collier laughed at a friend's joke, and felt one of two pins he was holding go down his throat.
"I started freaking out because I remembered this story about a girl who had to get emergency surgery, and I was like 'I can't get surgery. That's so many days of recovery. I'm never going to get stuff done.'"
His dad rushed him to the hospital, where an x-ray showed the pin was already making its way down his digestive tract.
Collier now has to wait for it to pass, and is going for a follow-up x-ray tomorrow to make sure it hasn't punctured anything along the way.
He said he thinks he can feel it, but isn't sure.
"Sometimes I feel a pain, and I'm like 'oh no, that's probably it,' but then I think 'how many aches and pains does the normal human have every day?'"
Through the whole ordeal, Collier has learned a very specific lesson.
"Sometimes it's easier to just pick up the pins with your fingers rather than resorting to unsafe methods of having pins handy," he said.
Posted by albert at
10:30
│Comments(0)
2015年01月12日
dads acting as fashion bloggers is the best
This Instagram proves dads acting as fashion bloggers is the best
A sartorial take on the dad joke, Fashion Dads is the best thing you'll click on all week. The Instagram account devoted to dad attire demonstrates the many ways our papas play into the #normcore and #athleisure zeitgeist without even realising it.
Though time has tamed him, you can thank your dad for spearheading trends such as New Balance sneakers, sensible cargo pants and light-wash, relaxed-fit Levis.
While blogs such as Dads are the Original Hipsters pay homage to the stylish dad of yesteryear, Fashion Dads is dedicated to the covetable dad style of today. You'll find awkward photos of fatherly types pairing photos of old sneakers with inspired hashtags such as #WinterWhite, #DenimDiva and even #GeorgeClooney.
You will marvel at their ensembles and laugh-out-loud at the subtly scathing commentary. And don't pass up the fashion advice. Want to know the myriad of ways one can style white tube socks? You've come to the right place. (Answer: With athletic 'swishy pants'.) As for footwear, real men wear mandals, even in the depths of winter.
The blog was created by Ashley Hesseltine and Travis May, the masterminds behindBros Being Basic. The duo first connected when they exchanged tales of the somewhat ridiculous way their dads dressed while on holidays. They've since expanded the project to include other peoples' dads and random gems picked from Instagram.
Hesseltine said her dad is secretly flattered by his inclusion. "I swear he even started dressing extra special over the holiday after we started the account," she told Today.
The anti-style stars of Fashion Dads are a refreshing antithesis to the wealth of willowy models and self-obsessed hipsters one sees on The Sartorialist andJack & Jil – not since Fashion Grandpas and Dudes In Startup Shirts have we felt this invigorated by a single-subject social media account!
Got a stylish patriarch in the family? Take a snapshot and submit it to fashiondads@gmail to claim his place in this hall of legends.
Turn up the heat in leopard-print lounge pants from #VictoriasSecret unisex collection.
A bright orange sweater is this season's must-have – just perfect for early spring outings and dinners.
A sartorial take on the dad joke, Fashion Dads is the best thing you'll click on all week. The Instagram account devoted to dad attire demonstrates the many ways our papas play into the #normcore and #athleisure zeitgeist without even realising it.
Though time has tamed him, you can thank your dad for spearheading trends such as New Balance sneakers, sensible cargo pants and light-wash, relaxed-fit Levis.
While blogs such as Dads are the Original Hipsters pay homage to the stylish dad of yesteryear, Fashion Dads is dedicated to the covetable dad style of today. You'll find awkward photos of fatherly types pairing photos of old sneakers with inspired hashtags such as #WinterWhite, #DenimDiva and even #GeorgeClooney.
You will marvel at their ensembles and laugh-out-loud at the subtly scathing commentary. And don't pass up the fashion advice. Want to know the myriad of ways one can style white tube socks? You've come to the right place. (Answer: With athletic 'swishy pants'.) As for footwear, real men wear mandals, even in the depths of winter.
The blog was created by Ashley Hesseltine and Travis May, the masterminds behindBros Being Basic. The duo first connected when they exchanged tales of the somewhat ridiculous way their dads dressed while on holidays. They've since expanded the project to include other peoples' dads and random gems picked from Instagram.
Hesseltine said her dad is secretly flattered by his inclusion. "I swear he even started dressing extra special over the holiday after we started the account," she told Today.
The anti-style stars of Fashion Dads are a refreshing antithesis to the wealth of willowy models and self-obsessed hipsters one sees on The Sartorialist andJack & Jil – not since Fashion Grandpas and Dudes In Startup Shirts have we felt this invigorated by a single-subject social media account!
Got a stylish patriarch in the family? Take a snapshot and submit it to fashiondads@gmail to claim his place in this hall of legends.
Turn up the heat in leopard-print lounge pants from #VictoriasSecret unisex collection.
A bright orange sweater is this season's must-have – just perfect for early spring outings and dinners.
Posted by albert at
10:28
│Comments(0)
2015年01月09日
Fashion line launches out of huge Woodlands closet
Fashion line launches out of huge Woodlands closet
The Woodlands woman who made headlines last summer with the largest closet in the country -and who was subsequently robbed - has set her sights on the fashion world.Theresa Roemer recently launched True and Real by Theresa Roemer, a women's clothing collection featuring 16 interchangeable, easy-to-travel pieces for day to evening. Prices are $248-$598.
Inspired by Roemer's own style, the collection has a chic, effortless edge. Take the Kaye dress, $298, in black with shoulder cut outs or the Palm Springs maxi dress, $598, that looks as right for a Houston gala as it does for a home dinner party."I want women to feel beautiful and I want to make it easy for them," said Roemer, standing in her ultra-contemporary Woodlands mansion, which she recently put up on the market.Roemer says she knows starting a fashion line is a risk given that the industry is bursting with new lines regularly. That's what makes the venture exciting, she says. "I'm a calculated risk taker."True and Real is being produced by Houston designer David Peck, whose fashion house, David Peck USA, also manufactures collections by designers Jonathan Blake and Amir Taghi.STYLE
Eating and drinking along New Orleans' new restaurant row
For genuine Mardi Gras experience, consider heading to Acadiana
Five fashion trends to try for a glam Mardi Gras this yearFabulous finds with palm prints for an early spring
Uptown Park fashion boutique celebrates 40 yearsRoemer met Peck while she was a customer of Blake."I thought I was probably going to have to get the pieces made overseas," she said. "After I talked with David about fitness wear, I decided a clothing line would be the best place to start. It's great to be able to create a line and have it made right here in Houston."Roemer recently held trunk shows for the True and Real collection at Donald J Pliner in Highland Village and Hotel Granduca. She debuted the Theresa Roemer True and Real signature soy candle line ($29-$47) in a trunk show at Neiman Marcus at the Galleria.She's hoping to expand into fitness wear in 2015.A Wyoming native who owned a string of fitness clubs there, Roemer is a former competitive body builder who took the U.S. Open title in body building in 1999 at age of 40. In 2011, Roemer climbed Mount Kilimanjaro to raise money for Child Legacy International.Roemer previously had a line of pillows with Kym Jackson. Both women were Mrs. Texas United America winners and together penned, "Nude: Unveiling Your Inner Beauty & Sensuality" (AuthorHouse) in 2011.While she still gets questions about her two-story 3,000-square-foot closet and the subsequent burglary days after it made national news, Roemer said she's focused on growing her fashion business and supporting her charitable interests."The closet was designed for fund-raising events. Neiman Marcus did a photo shoot there in May, then the 'Good Morning America' segment happened, but it didn't mention that closet was designed for charity events," she said.Standing in her closet, Roemer talks about growing up with little and working hard to get her first Louis Vuitton bag at age 18."I'm real. What you see is what you get," she said. "At the end of the day, I want to say I did it all."
The Woodlands woman who made headlines last summer with the largest closet in the country -and who was subsequently robbed - has set her sights on the fashion world.Theresa Roemer recently launched True and Real by Theresa Roemer, a women's clothing collection featuring 16 interchangeable, easy-to-travel pieces for day to evening. Prices are $248-$598.
Inspired by Roemer's own style, the collection has a chic, effortless edge. Take the Kaye dress, $298, in black with shoulder cut outs or the Palm Springs maxi dress, $598, that looks as right for a Houston gala as it does for a home dinner party."I want women to feel beautiful and I want to make it easy for them," said Roemer, standing in her ultra-contemporary Woodlands mansion, which she recently put up on the market.Roemer says she knows starting a fashion line is a risk given that the industry is bursting with new lines regularly. That's what makes the venture exciting, she says. "I'm a calculated risk taker."True and Real is being produced by Houston designer David Peck, whose fashion house, David Peck USA, also manufactures collections by designers Jonathan Blake and Amir Taghi.STYLE
Eating and drinking along New Orleans' new restaurant row
For genuine Mardi Gras experience, consider heading to Acadiana
Five fashion trends to try for a glam Mardi Gras this yearFabulous finds with palm prints for an early spring
Uptown Park fashion boutique celebrates 40 yearsRoemer met Peck while she was a customer of Blake."I thought I was probably going to have to get the pieces made overseas," she said. "After I talked with David about fitness wear, I decided a clothing line would be the best place to start. It's great to be able to create a line and have it made right here in Houston."Roemer recently held trunk shows for the True and Real collection at Donald J Pliner in Highland Village and Hotel Granduca. She debuted the Theresa Roemer True and Real signature soy candle line ($29-$47) in a trunk show at Neiman Marcus at the Galleria.She's hoping to expand into fitness wear in 2015.A Wyoming native who owned a string of fitness clubs there, Roemer is a former competitive body builder who took the U.S. Open title in body building in 1999 at age of 40. In 2011, Roemer climbed Mount Kilimanjaro to raise money for Child Legacy International.Roemer previously had a line of pillows with Kym Jackson. Both women were Mrs. Texas United America winners and together penned, "Nude: Unveiling Your Inner Beauty & Sensuality" (AuthorHouse) in 2011.While she still gets questions about her two-story 3,000-square-foot closet and the subsequent burglary days after it made national news, Roemer said she's focused on growing her fashion business and supporting her charitable interests."The closet was designed for fund-raising events. Neiman Marcus did a photo shoot there in May, then the 'Good Morning America' segment happened, but it didn't mention that closet was designed for charity events," she said.Standing in her closet, Roemer talks about growing up with little and working hard to get her first Louis Vuitton bag at age 18."I'm real. What you see is what you get," she said. "At the end of the day, I want to say I did it all."
Posted by albert at
10:25
│Comments(0)
2015年01月07日
Made in Britain: U.K. factories are back in fashion
Made in Britain: U.K. factories are back in fashion
Fashion is a fickle business but right now Britain is in vogue.
Luxury U.K. labels like Mulberry and Burberry (BURBY) are hiring scores of apprentices and other companies are bringing production back home. Young tailors are once again being schooled in the art of suit making on London's Savile Row.
And Asian shoppers will pay more for clothing "Made in Britain."
These are welcome signs of life for Britain's textile industry -- once an engine of the U.K. economy but in decline since the 1970s as firms moved to China or India to take advantage of lower costs.
Employment in U.K. manufacturing has risen for 20 months running, according to official figures, as companies invest in machinery and skills.
Experts say businesses are discovering the advantages of reshoring production -- they can bring products to market faster, and charge a premium.
"There is an air of confidence that I haven't seen in years," said Kate Hills, who runs Make it British, a company that connects designers with U.K. manufacturers.
For the first time in five years, producers are investing in new equipment such as state of the art digital printers and weaving looms, Hills said.
While "Made in Germany" is still the brand to beat in many areas of manufacturing, British-made goods are increasingly seen as a mark of quality in textiles.
Exporters could unlock up to £2.1 billion ($3.3 billion) in potential revenues by branding their products "Made in Britain," according to a recent report by Barclays.
The U.S. -- the U.K.'s largest export market -- represents the greatest single opportunity at $800 million in potential earnings, according to Barclays.
But the highest premiums can be found in Qatar and China. Consumers there are willing to pay up to 7% more for products from the land of the Royal family and James Bond.
Demand for British-made goods isn't limited to the export market.
Lingerie and sleepwear maker Headen & Quarmby brought all production back to England from Asia to gain greater control and proximity to its U.K. customers.
Sock maker Roy Lowe & Sons has also pulled some of its production back to Britain to get its wares in stores faster. Both companies said reshoring helped satisfy demand for locally-made goods.
The global appetite for British-made products is driving investment in skills at some of the country's biggest luxury names. High-end leather goods maker Mulberry has run itsapprentice program since 2006. 70 young workers have graduated.
Burberry began hiring apprentices in 2010 at a factory in northern England where the brand's iconic trench coats are made.
Traineeships are also flourishing on Savile Row. The London street is the global destination for style-conscious men willing to pay upwards of $3,500 for a bespoke suit.
For centuries the home of British tailoring -- and responsible for dressing the likes of Prince Charles and Benedict Cumberbatch -- has made its suits on site.
But skills were drying up as the bulk of its tailors neared retirement. An apprenticeship program was set up that will turn out its 50th graduate this year, reviving a craft that was at risk of disappearing.
Fashion is a fickle business but right now Britain is in vogue.
Luxury U.K. labels like Mulberry and Burberry (BURBY) are hiring scores of apprentices and other companies are bringing production back home. Young tailors are once again being schooled in the art of suit making on London's Savile Row.
And Asian shoppers will pay more for clothing "Made in Britain."
These are welcome signs of life for Britain's textile industry -- once an engine of the U.K. economy but in decline since the 1970s as firms moved to China or India to take advantage of lower costs.
Employment in U.K. manufacturing has risen for 20 months running, according to official figures, as companies invest in machinery and skills.
Experts say businesses are discovering the advantages of reshoring production -- they can bring products to market faster, and charge a premium.
"There is an air of confidence that I haven't seen in years," said Kate Hills, who runs Make it British, a company that connects designers with U.K. manufacturers.
For the first time in five years, producers are investing in new equipment such as state of the art digital printers and weaving looms, Hills said.
While "Made in Germany" is still the brand to beat in many areas of manufacturing, British-made goods are increasingly seen as a mark of quality in textiles.
Exporters could unlock up to £2.1 billion ($3.3 billion) in potential revenues by branding their products "Made in Britain," according to a recent report by Barclays.
The U.S. -- the U.K.'s largest export market -- represents the greatest single opportunity at $800 million in potential earnings, according to Barclays.
But the highest premiums can be found in Qatar and China. Consumers there are willing to pay up to 7% more for products from the land of the Royal family and James Bond.
Demand for British-made goods isn't limited to the export market.
Lingerie and sleepwear maker Headen & Quarmby brought all production back to England from Asia to gain greater control and proximity to its U.K. customers.
Sock maker Roy Lowe & Sons has also pulled some of its production back to Britain to get its wares in stores faster. Both companies said reshoring helped satisfy demand for locally-made goods.
The global appetite for British-made products is driving investment in skills at some of the country's biggest luxury names. High-end leather goods maker Mulberry has run itsapprentice program since 2006. 70 young workers have graduated.
Burberry began hiring apprentices in 2010 at a factory in northern England where the brand's iconic trench coats are made.
Traineeships are also flourishing on Savile Row. The London street is the global destination for style-conscious men willing to pay upwards of $3,500 for a bespoke suit.
For centuries the home of British tailoring -- and responsible for dressing the likes of Prince Charles and Benedict Cumberbatch -- has made its suits on site.
But skills were drying up as the bulk of its tailors neared retirement. An apprenticeship program was set up that will turn out its 50th graduate this year, reviving a craft that was at risk of disappearing.
Posted by albert at
10:32
│Comments(0)
